Wars Jango
‘My Pal Drojti Was Stationed At The Stream Tunnel That Connects To Our Hydroelectric Power Station When The Serbs Came Through It,’ Declared Our Host, Ante.
While the United States marks ten years after the attacks in NY that led to two wars and elemental changes in how American citizens view their security, Croatia solemnly recalls the 1991 incursion of Serbian troops and shelling of one of their most beloved cities, Dubrovnik. That started a two year war on their lonesome soil.
“My mate Drojti was stationed at the stream tunnel that connects to our hydroelectric power station when the Serbs came thru it,” said our host, Ante. “He ran down the hill, leapt into the sea and swam the 20 kilometers to the old city.
“The people who couldn’t leave Dubrovnik went into the old town because they believed the Serbs would never attack it,” Ante continued, with sourness in his voice. “But over 2,000 shells struck the town, and 68 % of the buildings had damage, some totally gutted by fire.”
As Cheri and I walked thru the ancient city, over stone streets that were laid centuries ago, it was tough to picture the annihilation. Just when we saw the Serbian TV photographs did the actuality sink in. Now, lovingly and meticulously rebuilt, Dubrovnik is once again a wonderful representation of medieval life. And families still live there, doing almost all of similar things they did way back. Only now, the Universal Teenager can be discovered even here. While Ante gave us a private history lesson, a bunch of youngsters walked noisily by, dressed pretty much the same as in the US, earbuds connected into their smartphones, guffawing at us visitors.
“What’s the economy like now?” I asked Ante.
“Not so good,” he responded. “After the war, we had to rebuild our industry, but lots of our people had sold their property and left to the U.S, to New Zealand, England and other places. Many homes were deserted. After ten years, things started to improve because Continentals began to build homes here, start businesses, and visitors returned. Then in 2008, the worldwide business recession just put everything into reverse. Tourism is just beginning to improve. But we need alternative sources of industry.”
I thought about the population emigrating, guessing that many of them would be younger folk, people who had not started a family. Looking at the striking natural beauty of the Dalmatian coast, I could see it had been a place of great nourishment for the adult soul and really uninteresting for kids.
Ante confirmed this was indeed the case.
“Our youth are not staying in enough numbers to create our future growth,” he revealed. “Many of them are getting degrees in economics and business, but there are few growing industries here to use them.”
This same story was repeated by Samoj (he liked to be called “Sam”), a person we shared drinks and a table with in Korcula, another walled city on an island of the same name further north. Sam is a Slovenian, trained as a lawyer and historian, working for a research institute in his home country of approximately 3,000,000 folks. We were fortunate to have such a credible source of information, and we made use of it.
“So, Sam, what was the civil war about?” I asked. “It was portrayed by our media as an ethnic war, that supposed ethnic ‘cleansing ‘ was what the Serbians were after.”
Sam explained, “Well, in actual fact Serbs, Slovenians, Croats and Bosnians are ethnically matching. We share similar ancient roots returning to the time of the Illyrians who formed the first regional identity beyond little tribes about three thousand years back. The conflict goes back to when the Roman Empire broke up and was divided between an eastern area and a western one. When that happened, Catholicism under a Roman pope dominated the western empire, while the Eastern Orthodox Church was predominant in what came to be called the Byzantine Empire. The orthodox faith does not recognise the pope as the representation of Jesus ‘ church, the priests can marry, and the sacraments are different, among many other things. Slovenia and Croatia are on the west side of the dividing line. The Serbian aggression was really about spiritual ‘cleansing, ‘ and of course, it was about money.”
“How did economics play into the war?” I asked.
“Under Tito, when we were all one country, there had been often equality across the bigger nation,” Sam expounded. “But the region of Slovenia was the commercial powerhouse. We had a little fraction of the total population, but we were the source of thirty % of Yugoslavia’s gross domestic product. Croatia had the beautiful coast and many beautiful islands where ancient hamlets still thrived. Croatia was the holiday maker mecca for Yugoslavians and many EU states on either side of the Iron Curtain. Ever since Yugoslavia was first created after World War I, the Serbians, who were the most in number, needed to exercise the greatest influence over the course of the country. When Tito died, Serbian ambitions re-emerged, and their desire to control the 2 wealthiest regions of the old Yugoslavia drove them to attack when Slovenia and Croatia declared their independence.”
It occurred to me as I listened to Sam that Jesus would find it tragic if he knew that in the name of claiming exclusive rights to his inheritance, envious people would try to take away what others had out of envy and greed. Perhaps he does know as reported tagza.com.
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